we like: Versace Fall 2014 RTW

The Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear collection from Versace features micro dresses—that mod, 60’s length—asymmetrical hems, boxy coats, playful (or playlike, or toylike) military buttons, and a restrained color palette of mainly red, black, and a deep, saturated teal. I am often on board with superfluous buttons, but the real beauties of this collection are the bias cut dresses, a new thing for Versace, and the absolutely stunning boots. Leave it to an Italian designer to present badass thigh-high boots for daywear.

The bias is the 45 degree angle across the grid of a woven fabric, in which direction the fabric has greater flexibility and stretch. Fabrics cut in this direction, bias cut, are known for draping beautifully and hugging the body in a way that is fluid and seamless (or seemingly seamless, compared to the complex tailoring/seaming of a fitted dress cut straight), at least in luxury fabrics like silk and satin. They are usually easy to spot as the fabric of the garment and the internal seams necessary to piece together a sufficiently large swathe of fabric are at that 45 degree angle from the major seams. Galliano, for example, especially in his work at Dior, is known for his bias cut dresses.




So these boots above are handsome, yes, chic and witchy, but I was talking about these boots.





Ugh! Beautifully done, Donatella. The sleek silhouette is given a bohemian softness by the elaborate cut-outs and suede finish.

These ones not bad, either. These, still more baroque in their embellishment, seem to me even more blatantly Italian.


images via style.com, click through to the slideshow to see the whole collection


Nanette Lepore: just one dress

I caught sight of this one dress from the Nanette Lepore Spring 2015 collection and was curious to see the rest. As it sometimes happens, I wasn’t interested in the collection as a whole at all, a colorful, bohemian, vacation-inspired array of caftans and tent dresses. Upon closer inspection, I really only like the one dress.

This always baffles me a little. How can it be! How is this (clearly the best piece, because I like it best) not the heart of the collection? [Those fools!]

[It can be difficult to live with egomania, you see.]

But, fine. It’s more a piece of luck that I liked anything at all (always a piece of luck, to really like something). So I don’t like this designer much overall, and will direct my attentions elsewhere. I still love the dress.


The close row of buttons, the Bardot neckline, the diaphanous (and therefore the weight of the fabric) sleeves and skirt, the precise length of the sleeves and skirt, the blousy fit of the torso, the size and spacing of the Breton-style stripes, that they are horizontal, the clean black and white palette… A romantic, elevated shirtdress.

I just like everything about this. More of this, please, Nanette.

image via style.com