smell this: Lalique Encre Noir


Lalique’s Encre Noir is aptly named. It does indeed smell like black ink, specifically like the black ink I have from the calligraphy shop in Chinatown (different inks can have quite different odors, depending on their origins and ingredients). Put any ideas of unpleasantly chemical toner cartridges out of your mind, proper black ink smells incredible. There is something dark and earthy, like rich, freshly unearthed soil, as well as a slight saltiness combined with a metallic tang that I find reminiscent of both blood and the more enticing of of the various darkroom chemicals. A certain mustiness might creep in, yet it is not unappealing. Rather like the smell of only just moldy bread, the richness of yeast with the touch of mold adding a bit of depth and interest.

Ink smells like… ink, OK?

So to this concept of dark, earthy black ink is added an equally dark and earthy vetiver. This is neither the bright, sparkling vetiver of Guerlain Vetiver nor the rich creamy vetiver of L’Occitane Eau de Vetyver, and it is worlds away from the sweet sophistication of Vetiver Tonka. This is the darkest of my vetivers, and it has the kind of powerful, distinct personality you would remember. It is closer to the raw scent of vetiver oil, which is, undiluted, basically unpleasant. Imagine the root of a bitter grass any human would know instinctively not to eat, and imagine it is still covered in loamy earth, and imagine there are cuts in the root emitting a bizarrely fresh scent, almost minty (in countries where vetiver is harvested people will scrub the roots clean and put sections in a pitcher of water to add a bit of zest, as one might do with mint or lemon). Then you add a bit of smoke, a bit of bourbon, a bit of cedar, a teeny bit of musk (this comes forward later in the day), and goodness knows what else.

This is unapologetically dark. An obvious masculine, which means, of course, that it is fabulous on a woman who loves it*. So obvious a masculine, though, that I think a lot of men wouldn’t touch it, either. It’s not for the faint of heart, and watch out if you do touch it. Vetiver is a common base because of it’s excellent lasting power on the skin, and the smallest drop of Encre Noir lingers for hours on skin and for days or weeks on the inanimate (coats, scarves, sweaters, watch bands, pajamas, etc). For some people the booze is too prominent, for some the smoke, for some it is just too much vetiver (depends on your nose and your taste). That said, for me, this smells goood. This smells alluring. Dare I say it, sexy. It’s dark, rich, intriguing, unforgettable. I apply with a light hand and only when I’m in the right mood (usually when it’s cold out, it can be too much for me in the warm weather). Sometimes I’ll just spray it on a coat or a scarf at a distance to get a gentle cloud of it that isn’t too much a part of me. Great bottle (though the pump sprays copiously, which I find not ideal). Not difficult to find it at a great price, either.

*There is an Encre Noir pour Elle but I haven’t had a chance to smell it yet. Curious, though.

smell this: Cartier Déclaration

I like men who like Cartier Déclaration.*  I have that urge – that sudden urge I sometimes get upon learning such small details as this – to put my faith in their hands.

*Women, too, theoretically, should I ever meet any.

IMG_6138Déclaration launched in 1998, composed by the subtle Jean-Claude Ellena, whose work I like so often, and so well. This smells somehow old-fashioned and modern at the same time. A masculine blend of bitter, spicy, and smoky, this scent is at once mature and…what to call it? Virile, maybe. A cultivated virility.

My pattern of generally preferring “masculines” (marketing!) is clear.

In the notes we have bitter orange, cardamom (this is the spice I mean, not a warm amber/holiday spice, but a green, slightly exotic, peppery spice) and a blend of birchwood, cedarwood, oakmoss, and smoked wood. [So, yes, it smells of wood.] This is very smoky, to warn you. Rather like your clothes might smell after a bonfire, to distinguish from the sweeter tobacco notes you sometimes get in masculines. Or maybe more like it smells at a bonfire, with the smell of the burning wood mingling with the live woods nearby. Seriously, if you are into bonfires…

IMG_6139Cool cap mechanism, too.

There is also, controversially, a slight cumin or body odor-like smell, which tends to be polarizing. People love it or hate it, depending on their skin and temperament. I love it, at least as it is interpreted here, and as it behaves on my skin. For me the cumin is balanced by the bittersweet citrus elements and bound up with (and integral to) the strength of the smoke. It is nice to acknowledge and celebrate the human element rather than try to mask it into oblivion, ultimately a losing battle for a human body,  though the barrage of “clean” and “fresh” fragrances would have you try. I don’t want to smell unclean but I don’t want to smell inhuman, either. I want to smell alive. Not like a kitchen.