into: Japonesque Color

Japonesque has long been a manufacturer of professional makeup brushes and tools, for their own brand as well as other high-end brands. An American company out of Northern California (a little over 25 years old now), the name comes from being inspired by the tools of Japanese Kabuki theater (and benefits, no doubt, from the association with Japan, where many sublime brushes are born). It’s a great brand to turn to to get the brushes of the quality that brands like MAC and NARS promise for a bit less (a number of companies doing this well now), and they have a good variety of shapes and sizes.

The general verdict on their makeup line, Japonesque Color (launched last fall), is that the quality of the formulas in the line are solidly good with the exception of the powder products, which are excellent. I realized I was in the market for an excellent powder. And a blush, maybe…

IMG_1739

Then of course I got a lipstick, too.

IMG_1745

Japonesque Velvet Touch Finishing Powder, Pro Performance Lipstick in Shade 7, Velvet Touch Blush in Shade 3

These powder formulas are indeed excellent. These are finely milled, which is key, and are of that new generation of powders that seem to melt into the skin, serving their function of mattifying or providing a smooth surface for subsequent applications without leaving the impression of a powdered face. Other examples include the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder and the Urban Decay Ultra Definition Pressed Finishing Powder (which I haven’t tried, but Sali Hughes gave it a glowing review). I also use and like the Rimmel Stay Matte powder, which is $5 or so and does the job it is meant to do, but these new formulas are in another league altogether in terms of transparency and lightness.

I use this as a transition product between the cream and powder stages of a makeup. Say I want to use a cream illuminator but a powder blush, I apply the cream product, swish some powder (with a brush*) over that area destined for the blush, and am able to apply the blush without getting uneven patches where the skin was more or less dry.

*Not a sponge, which I find applies too much product. These products don’t come with built-in brushes, which I like very much. Let’s all stop pretending I want to have anything to do with those.

The blush is my favorite of the lot, very similar in hue to the Bobbi Brown Pink Coral blush I like so well (fractionally darker), but with fine gold flecks that set it entirely apart. This is Shade 3, a rich cactus flower pink. I am, when browsing for makeup, like someone browsing paint swatches in a hardware store. It often comes down to a matter of color, a visceral affinity for a given color with a background check on the formula and a quick cost/benefit analysis to give the go ahead. I only partially succeed in my attempts to avoid shade duplicates, though I admit I am not always trying very hard, and alternate justifications for acquisition are a dime a dozen.

IMG_1746

wearing here

 As with the finishing powder it is beautifully sheer and light, and as with the Bobbi Brown blush it instantly brightens the face. The shimmer is subtle and fine, and I am for it. The formula is as beautiful as blushes twice the price*, and I think these powder products are offer great value for money. The lipstick I truly did not need, and it is good. It is not so mind-blowingly good that I would exactly recommend it at this price, but it is good. I took care to select a shade not yet represented in my stash, and I have no regrets.

*Though there are also blushes nearly as nice for half of the price, or a quarter of the price. And to be nearly as nice as something unnecessarily nice…is often nice enough. What I tend to turn to higher end brands for, beyond exceptional textures (drugstore and budget brands offer many great formulas now, and excellent ones here and there), is a compelling color range.

Then, a fan brush. I’ve been wanting a fan brush, you see. They are notoriously good at sweeping highlighter over the cheekbones. While it does do this, and is a great balance of stiff and flexible, for me it is mostly for show. Let’s face it, it’s beautiful. I’ve been hearing great things about this Eco Tools fan brush, too. The position of fan brush has been filled now but still kind of want to check it out…

[The other brush pictured is an angled kabuki-style buffing thing, a gift with purchase. It buffs. I like it, but I like the Real Techniques Expert Face Brush better.]

into: Erin Wasson for Free People

I enjoy the boho chic Free People aesthetic. I think they do it well, maybe better than any other brand at the moment, and certainly they are consistent.

Their weakness is doing it a little too well; a few too many embellishments and tatters where a rustic simplicity (a garment that feels more authentically vintage and less stylized, which most of these do not) would serve better. This sometimes takes the charm away, I find. They’ve tried to make each item of clothing convey the whole concept (this is more than most garments can handle, I say, though I appreciate the vision) such that many feel ready-made, and so a bit devoid of personality. Like a box cake. Whereas I like bohemian looks best when they feel a bit weird and cobbled together, where any given piece of the ensemble would be, in isolation, relatively unremarkable, and it is the person who imposes a bohemian structure on the elements. [Actually, replace each instance of ‘bohemian’ in that last sentence with any aesthetic, and that’s what I like in the case of that aesthetic.] Some of the pieces are comically expensive, too, given the vibe.

That said, I like a number of their offerings (i.e. some of the simpler tops and dresses, their skinny leggings, and their boot selection), and I really like their most recent campaign [for the March 2014 catalogue] with model Erin Wasson.

03132014073630

I like her face so much, it’s an appealing combination of delicate, angular, and wholesome (this is maybe just the level brows and the round lips?), with the strange, compelling potential to look almost feral.

03132014073655

03132014073650

03132014073644

03132014073636

03132014073622

03132014073610

03132014073600

03132014073752

03132014073701

03132014073712

Long, loose dresses, sheer textures, cut-outs, lacing, and plenty of skin peeking through, stacked bracelets, leather, lace, and beading, BOOTS…I’m getting some good ideas here. Her messy-chic hair is great, too.

images via Free People (click link to see the whole campaign)