smell this: Cartier Déclaration

I like men who like Cartier Déclaration.*  I have that urge – that sudden urge I sometimes get upon learning such small details as this – to put my faith in their hands.

*Women, too, theoretically, should I ever meet any.

IMG_6138Déclaration launched in 1998, composed by the subtle Jean-Claude Ellena, whose work I like so often, and so well. This smells somehow old-fashioned and modern at the same time. A masculine blend of bitter, spicy, and smoky, this scent is at once mature and…what to call it? Virile, maybe. A cultivated virility.

My pattern of generally preferring “masculines” (marketing!) is clear.

In the notes we have bitter orange, cardamom (this is the spice I mean, not a warm amber/holiday spice, but a green, slightly exotic, peppery spice) and a blend of birchwood, cedarwood, oakmoss, and smoked wood. [So, yes, it smells of wood.] This is very smoky, to warn you. Rather like your clothes might smell after a bonfire, to distinguish from the sweeter tobacco notes you sometimes get in masculines. Or maybe more like it smells at a bonfire, with the smell of the burning wood mingling with the live woods nearby. Seriously, if you are into bonfires…

IMG_6139Cool cap mechanism, too.

There is also, controversially, a slight cumin or body odor-like smell, which tends to be polarizing. People love it or hate it, depending on their skin and temperament. I love it, at least as it is interpreted here, and as it behaves on my skin. For me the cumin is balanced by the bittersweet citrus elements and bound up with (and integral to) the strength of the smoke. It is nice to acknowledge and celebrate the human element rather than try to mask it into oblivion, ultimately a losing battle for a human body,  though the barrage of “clean” and “fresh” fragrances would have you try. I don’t want to smell unclean but I don’t want to smell inhuman, either. I want to smell alive. Not like a kitchen.

 

autumn palettes

There are two eyeshadow palettes I’m particularly looking forward to using for autumn, I think you’ll immediately see why.

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The Sleek Sunset palette has those warm, rusty tones I’ve been banging on about for ages, and a great Mediterranean blue (if you want to try that bold pop of blue under the eyes à la the Marc Jacobs show, which I definitely do*). Nicely priced, too. The Dior Earth Tones palette (discontinued now but there are similar ones) is a lovely example of those muddy olive and burgundy tones I like so predictably every time I come across them. Rather staggeringly priced. Beautiful in application, though, quite a sumptuous formulation, and I’m feeling no pangs about it.

I never get tired of browsing great masses of colors, individually or in combination, and deciding which I like best, which I am drawn to the most. I think I will not disclose how long I spent trying to find the Dior palette once it had been chosen. Or once it chose me, as it so often seems.

*Experimentation is salutary.

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If you’re curious, I’ll likely apply them with one or more of these favorite eye brushes.

IMG_7421Top to bottom: Sigma tapered blending brush, MAC 217, bamboo bdellium 785 (best value blender here, and so soft, though the Sigma brushes are well priced, too), Paula Dorf sheer crease brush (current favorite), Sigma E20, essence of Beauty crease brush (from the little drugstore crease duo), e.l.f. contour brush, e.l.f. eye shadow “C” brush (this is such an incredible value*, I think the blush brush is fantastic, too).

*essentially I believe in spending over $10 for a good blending brush (once you use a good one you understand that you aren’t going back to whatever you did before…however you don’t need this many. Only one. Or, for convenience, two, where one stays largely clean throughout the process for additional blending while the other deposits the color. Oh, just go watch Lisa Eldridge, OK?), but not for a flat shading brush.

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All kitted out like this, you’d think I’d wear eyeshadow more often.

I intend to work on that.

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